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Closing Your Swimming Pool

Stains, corrosion and scale are not just problems during the swimming season. By using the right products and following the simple procedures below, you will protect your pool during the cold winter weather. Climates vary, so be sure to ask your local pool dealer for specific winterizing instructions.

1. Take a water sample to your local swimming pool dealer for a complete water analysis. Follow your dealer's instructions to balance the water as needed.
2. Clean your pool by brushing the walls, skimming the water surface and vacuuming the pool bottom. Clean pool wall tile and vinyl with cleaner. Empty pump an skimmer basket.
3. Clean or backwash the filter according to the manufacturer's instructions using a filter cleaner and degreaser following the label instructions.
4. Protect your pool water by doing a pool shock. Run the pump for several hours to disperse the product thoroughly.
5. Protect your pool against algae with the addition of an algaecide.
6. Lower the water in the pool down to the level recommended by the manufacturer for winterizing.
7. Drain water from equipment such as pump, filter, heater, chlorinator, hoses and pipes as recommended by the manufacturer. Ask your dealer if you should protect the pipes and equipment with a non-toxic, swimming pool antifreeze. Ladders, chlorinator (if offline model), pump and skimmers baskets should be stored.
8. Cover the pool using a quality cover to prevent leaves, dirt and debris from accumulating in the pool.

After consulting with your local swimming pool dealer, you may decide to leave your pool open during the winter months. If so, the following are recommended at a minimum:

1. Operate the pump at least several hours a day or continuously if the temperature gets down to freezing.
2. Maintain normal pH and minimum free chlorine levels.
3. Keep the pool free of leaves, dirt and debris.

Flamingo Pools International is a premier inground swimming pool builder and swimming pool parts supplier located in McAllen, TX. For more information on how to safely close your swimming pool, more inground swimming pool maintenance tips, and advise visit Flamingo-Pools.net

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Test, Shock, and Save - How to Enjoy Your Swimming Pool and Spend Less Time and Money

A family swimming pool can be a great addition to any household A gathering place for friends and family, for relaxation, for exercise, parties and more. Unfortunately many prospective pool owners and even those lucky enough to own a pool are put off by the maintenance involved and confused about how to do it properly.

Pay now or pay later.
Like your automobile and so much else, doing the right things a few minutes each day will make your pool a joy to own, avoid problems and save time and money. Pool care can be reduced to two key elements test and shock. Swimming pools contain water (duh) and water is a very complex substance. It is THE universal solvent, which means most anything likely to come in contact with your pool water will dissolve.

Swimming pool water also needs to maintain certain key characteristics to be attractive and safe for swimming. In many ways keeping a swimming pool in top condition is like hitting a constantly moving target. The water changes almost daily as it absorbs products of the environment and pool owners attempt to maintain a happy medium with chemicals and filtration. Yikes! Fortunately there are ways to put yourself in charge and keep it that way.

TEST-THE FIRST BIG ONE

Given the complex nature of pool water and environmental contaminants the only way to find out about your water is to test regularly. Regularly is a minimum of 4-5 times each week. In the past testing could be tedious and inaccurate due to the type of test kits generally available. For many years the standard test kits were based on liquid reagents added to pool water and a resulting color change indicating the results of the test. Given the inaccuracy of counting reagent drops and the characteristics of the reagents results for the average pool owner were often inaccurate and led to problems.

A giant step forward was made in the late 1980?s with the introduction of the pool water test strip by Environmental Test Systems of Elkhart, Indiana. Called Aquachek, these slim plastic strips had three paper pads that were impregnated with a reagent specific to the testing that is most important to keep a pool in good shape free chlorine, pH and total alkalinity. Dipping the strip into the pool water produced a color change that could be compared to a color chart on the test strip container. If the color was in the correct color range for that test everything was good, if not the test let you know which way to go to correct the problem. Now made by a number of companies since the expiration of the ETS patent test strips have made pool water testing quick, easy and accurate. No excuses! You can test your pool in under a minute.

TESTING FOR WHAT AND WHY?

Let?s introduce the big three: free chlorine, pH and total alkalinity. Many years of research and practical experience has shown that these three components of pool water have the most influence on water quality. If free chlorine, pH and total alkalinity are in the proper range no swimming pool is likely to have problems with water. Let?s discuss each one in some detail.

Free Chlorine-who captured it anyway?

When chlorine is added to pool water in any form, liquid, granular or tablet, it forms hypochlorous acid or free chlorine. Fear not, the concentration is typically well below 10 parts per million. Hypochlorous acid is pretty interesting stuff. It reacts with just about anything organic like all that stuff nature and swimmers put in your pool. Use your imagination and you can believe there is plenty of organic material to work with. When free chlorine reacts with organic junk it ?attaches? to it and breaks it up like a fire burning wood. Technically it ?oxidizes? the offending material. Burned up by the free chlorine the offending material becomes inoffensive and no problem. The chorine does not escape unscathed however.

Once chlorine attaches itself to and destroys contaminants it is no longer free chlorine but a chloramine. Chloramines are used up and useless for any further clean up work in a pool. They have to be replaced with more free chlorine. It?s clear that knowing the amount of free chlorine in your pool is very important. When you buy a test kit be sure it tests for free chlorine. Liquid test kits using a chemical called DPD and all test strips measure free chlorine.

pH-why capitalize the second letter?

pH is the most important component. pH measures the acidity or alkalinity of water. A low pH is acidic and corrosive, a high pH is alkaline or basic and causes mineral buildup and irritation. Swimming pool water should be kept at a pH of between 7.2 and 7.8. Keep in mind that pH is measured on a logarithmic scale so the difference between a pool water pH of 7.2 and 7.3 is not one-tenth more but 100 times more! The seemingly narrow pH range is not so narrow after all and being ?just a bit over or under? is important.

The mysterious Total Alkalinity

Total alkalinity measures the dissolved carbonates in your water. All water has a natural level of these dissolved carbonates and they play an important role in swimming pools. Total alkalinity acts as a buffer to pH. At the proper level alkalinity ?locks? pH into a range and keeps it there. Very soft water has low alkalinity and pH tends to bounce around quite a bit. Keeping the alkalinity in the proper range of 80-160 ppm keeps pH in line too.

There it is. Regular testing of your pool water lets you know if the BIG 3, free chlorine, pH and Total Alkalinity are in the proper range so your pool stays clear and inviting. You will also know right away if the water is out of whack and can take action before it goes bad. Testing and adding any necessary chemicals might take as much as fifteen minutes 4-5 times a week. Not too shabby!

SHOCK-THE SECOND BIG ONE

Using your pool is what it?s all about. After using your pool determines how soon you might get to use it again.

Up in the testing section we talked about contaminants from nature and swimmers and how chlorine deals with them. After a long afternoon in the pool your free chlorine is completely exhausted. If you don?t replace it in a hurry ??.bad things! Do your own test on your next pool afternoon with family and friends. Once everyone is out and enjoying dinner or perhaps adult beverages stand near the pool. You?ll smell ?that chlorine smell? good and strong. What your nose is picking up is the smell of chloramines, used up chlorine! Free chlorine in pool water is virtually odorless. A heavy chlorine smell means you?re low on chlorine not that you have too much.

Adding more chlorine to your floater or feeder is great but it won?t get around the whole pool in time to prevent a potential breakdown. That?s where shocking comes in. We pool types differentiate between shocking and superchlorination. Super chlorination raises the level of free chlorine from the normal 1.5-3 ppm to at least 5 ppm. Shocking raises free chlorine to at least 10ppm. Raising the chlorine level in this way ensures that contaminants are completely burned out or oxidized and that enough free chlorine is available to re-establish the normal level of sanitizer in your pool.

When the pool clears out after use just add 1 lb. of shock for every 10,000 gallons of water your pool holds and call it a day. Calcium hypochlorite is the most popular shock. It does the job and quickly breaks down in sunlight so you can swim again. Sodium dichlor products are gaining popularity as are non-chlorine shocks. If you use a non-chlorine shock remember that by itself it?s not much good. Non-chlorine shock needs some chlorine in the water to work.

QUICK AND EASY

Remember the dynamic duo test and shock. If you do these faithfully your pool will reward the your few minutes each day with great looking, inviting water all season long. And it will cost you less! It?s a win-win baby!

Rob Coxworth is President and CEO of Webfoot Leisure.com, an online retailer of swimming pools, supplies and equipment. Rob has been in the swimming pool industry since 1985 and involved in water chemistry and chemicals since first joining the swimming pool industry. The good Dr. has held senior positions in sales, manufacturing consulting and marketing and worked with many major companies in the pool water chemical marketplace. http://www.webfootleisure.com

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How to Maintain Your Swimming Pool's Health

Have you ever come out of the pool and felt like a dry sponge? Maybe that feeling is a little too common in what's supposed to be your backyard oasis. The reason for the uncomfortable residue, clothes discoloration, eye irritation, staining, cloudy water, and even scale buildup is that your water is off balance.

Get your water right on the scale by balancing your water. This simple procedure will lengthen the life of your water, pump, heater, filter, and other equipment. Balancing and testing your water will also make your pool care a breeze.

pH is the most important factor in water balance. The pH range is used to measure the relative acid or base of the water. This you probably learned in your basic chemistry class in high school.

Here are the exact fields in which you should see your water:

The range runs from 0 to 14, with a pH of 7 being a neutral. Readings between 7.2 and 7.6 are considered acceptable, or in the comfort zone, for swimming pool water. Balanced water must be held safely between two harmful extremes.

If your water comes on the low side of the scale, it becomes corrosive and starts to attack pool surfaces and equipment. We call this your corrosion zone. Ha! Now you know why your water heater is corroding.

On the other hand, if your pool water tips the scale on the high side you will start to notice scale buildup, and this is your scaling zone that will leave unwanted deposits in your pool.

Unbalanced water not only brings bad news but also may put a hole in your pocket. How's that? Your sanitizer's effectiveness will be hindered if your water is off balance. So this is probably your answer if you start seeing an increasing amount of chlorine to keep your pool clear.

The second factor you must look at is at the Total Alkalinity of your pool. Total Alkalinity measures the alkaline materials dissolved in the water, and the acceptable range is between 80 and 150 ppm. Expressed in parts per million (ppm), total alkalinity results from alkaline materials including carbonates, bicarbonates and hydroxides - mostly bicarbonates in your pool. Alkaline water is acid neutralizing, meaning that it helps prevent wide variations in pH.

In a few words, Total alkalinity is a measure of water's resistance to change in pH.

Same as pH, if the Total Alkalinity is low, the result is "pH bounce", meaning that the pH will tend to "bounce" in and out of range. If the Total Alkalinity is too high, yes you also have problems. This will make your water to become very difficult to adjust to a normal pH.

Not to worry, any alkalinity problem can be fixed. See chart for exact information.

The third factor in balanced water is measuring Calcium Hardness. The normal range for Calcium Hardness is between 175 and 275 ppm. This is referring to the amount of dissolved minerals, mostly calcium carbonate, in water.

Although under normal conditions this is not a problem in a properly operated pool, this chemical imbalance also heads up problems. For example, a low Calcium Hardness can lead to corrosion of equipment or the etching of a plaster finish. Like everything else we have discussed, the other side of the scale says that a high Calcium Hardness level causes cloudy water and scaling.

Calcium Hardness is also a very controllable element in your pool. See chart to adjust your Calcium Hardness levels.

Lastly, Stabilizer is an important factor in your pool water's "health". Without this factor the sun's rays would quickly destroy the chlorine in your pool. Stabilizer is Cyanuric Acid that acts as a "sun shield" to make the chlorine last longer. This means that your chlorine could last up to 3 ? times longer!! Imagine the savings!

Proper stabilization requires 30 to 50 ppm of Cyanuric Acid, and outdoor pools should start by raising it to a minimum level of 40 ppm Cyanuric Acid. Afterwards, you can simply use stabilized chlorine to maintain the proper Stabilizer levels.

Flamingo Pools International is a premier inground swimming pool builder and swimming pool parts supplier. For more information on inground swimming pool maintenance tips and advise visit Flamingo-Pools.net

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Wow Your Friends with an Ocean Blending Swimming Pool

Have you ever seen a swimming pool that seems to have no edge, appears to go on forever and blends into the ocean? If you have never seen one of these, your first time could be somewhat scary. But there is nothing to fear. On the contrary, there is fun to be had.

You see the swimming pool that I?ve just described is called an infinity edge pool.

An infinity edge pool (also known as "negative edge" and "infinity pool") is an inground swimming pool that creates the illusion that the water on one or more ends of the pool is supported by nothing and overflowing.

For centuries, Europeans have been using the infinity pool design, however, they did not gain popularity in the U.S. until the 1950's.

The overflowing effect is enhanced when the "edgeless" parts of the pool are located over high ground that drops away. When the infinity pool is located near a water source like an ocean or lake,it gives the beautiful illusion that the pool water does not end, that it goes on to infinity.

The infinity pool is also admired for its reflective ability. It can look quite stunning at night and can create a wonderful romantic environment.

The edgeless look on the negative edge pool is achieved by placing a reservoir, or pool skimmer, below and out of view on the "edgeless side". The reservoir works like the rest of the pool filtration system and the collected water is filtered back into the pool.

So, although it seems to be edgeless, this is not the case. The illusion is breathtaking. Indulge yourself with an infinity edge pool and allow your imagination to run wild into?well?into infinity.

Flamingo Pools International is a Premier inground swimming pool builder. With over 20 years of experience they specialize in creating a wonderful scene and environment with your own infinity edge pool. For more information visit Flamingo-Pools.net

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Tips for Winterizing Swimming Pools

Once summer ends and cold days start to show up, it will be time to shut your pool down. The first step you need to take care of is the water. You need to start by checking your pH level, and making sure that it is approximately 7.5. If it is not, just put in some dry acid.

Next, you need to check your chlorine as well. You should use a winterizing product to ensure that your pool will be protected from algae during winter months.

During these cold months, you have to run your pump for about six hours every day, in order to prevent the algae from settling in.

Next, check for any types of leaks as well. Switch your skimmer valve off and let the water drain to about six inches below the skimmer's bottom. Doing this, you will have the preferred amount of water in your swimming pool.

If you used a summer cover, give it good cleaning using fresh water or a pressure washer. Once you have cleaned it thoroughly, put it in your building or garage and take out a winter cover. When putting your winter cover on the pool, ensure that there is enough tension on the cover. This will prevent anything from getting under the cover.

You need to check the pool cover several days a week to make sure that it is still tight. Tell your family and friends that you have closed your pool down for the winter, and that they should not be close to it. Most of pool covers are designed to protect your pool; they are not made for safety. In no way, under any circumstances should you let a person or even a pet on the cover.

Once you are done with the cover, you need to take care of the equipment. You have to drain the water from your pump, filter and heater. Every one have a drain plug located someplace near the bottom, which makes it easy to drain the water out.

Do not forget to do this, as the water will freeze inside of your equipment during the winter months and cause permanent damage of your equipment.

Once you are finished preparing your swimming pool for the winter months, you can relax knowing that your swimming pool is properly protected. Check on it every several days to make sure that nothing has happened.

About the Author

Alex Fir shares a wealth of information on his website href="http://www.swimmingpoolsguide.info/">Swimming Pool Covers. To read about swimming pool winter covers visit his website right now.

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